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Thanks to Jacquie from Canada.

The 2010 Road of Bones Expedition is done and dusted with ALL clients reaching Magadan with zero injuries and minimal bike issues.

The ride was brilliant, yet challenging at times and I am sure we all had moments that we wished we were at home with our loved ones instead of riding the Road of Bones. However, it is when we are faced with those challenges and overcome them that we can really say we have accomplished something here.

WE DID IT!

It is impossible to summarize a 100 day expedition so I won’t attempt to, I just want to thank the riders and co-riders and all of you who have followed us on this epic expedition.

We will be back for more next year.

Cheers

Mick McDonald

Beautiful scenery

Full of anticipation for the ride on the Road of Bones we crossed the Lena River once more and began the 2000km ride to Magadan, all on dirt. The road was a mix of loose gravel and limited sand areas through the vast forest of the Taiga. The traffic had become non-existent now and we were on our own. We rode all day enjoying the lonely roads before deciding to camp on a small hilltop overlooking the forests that were being brilliantly illuminated by the setting sun, the looming snow storm ahead also convinced us to stop.

A camp fire was quickly underway as the temperature was going down as quick as the sun. Our permanent cook, Carmen, soon had a hearty soup boiling along with yet another delicious meal.

Riding out the following morning Pat was again the culprit for bringing things to a halt with another puncture. Quickly underway we rode down to the banks of the Aldan River where we proceeded to wait 3 hours for the ferry captain to finally get things underway, the ensuing chaos for a position on the ferry saw a few heated arguments amongst the locals and the crew. We spent 1 ½ hours sailing down the beautiful Aldan River to rejoin the Road of Bones. Riding into the decrepit Handagar we quickly fuelled and continued on heading toward Ust Nera.

An icy bridge on the Road of Bones

We rode into the mountains that offered absolutely stunning views all round, it was truly epic riding. Raging turquoise rivers thundered through the valleys that were full of the yellow and red Taiga while massive snow capped peaks towered above, the beauty of the landscape took us all by surprise. We decided to camp by a river that dissected a large valley with the snowy peaks not far off, a more perfect campsite would be hard to imagine.

Riding out next morning the weather had turned against us yet the scenery was still unbelievable. We reached a pass just under a 1000mts when I came crashing to the ground, as did others, numerous times, we had hit ice and it was incredibly slippery, even walking proved a challenge as Carmen and I found out, both taking a tumble while walking. The ride had suddenly become very challenging; we had to get off the mountain ASAP. We all rode down at walking pace, taking a couple more tumbles as we went. The ride continued trough the wonderful scenery all day however the temperature struggled to top 5 degrees Celsius.

We were amazed to see another biker riding toward us, a solo Romanian guy who had ridden the Road of Bones to Magadan, he had enjoyed the ride so much that he decided to turn around and ride it again, back to Yakutsk. He did tell us of one more mountain pass we had to cross before Ust Nera so we kept going not wanting to have to cross the pass the following morning when things would be frozen again, we had enough falls for this week.

Calling it quits for the night

We did eventually reach the pass which offered stunning uninterrupted views of snow capped peaks for as far as the eye could see, again we were all taken aback by the scenery, at least we were when we could afford to take our eyes off the road for a second, I never thought I would actually be relieved to see mud and slush, anything is better than ice. Another beautiful campsite was found just before Ust Nera.

The temperature never moved much above 6 degrees Celsius as we rode through Ust Nera, stocking up on food and fuel and continuing on along the road of bones. Again the days ride proved to be a scenic overload with the ever present snowy mountains and the autumn colours of the Taiga in full display. The very few settlements we passed through were incredible in the fact that they were completely derelict and looked as if they had barely survived a bomb blast, more run down and forlorn places would be hard to imagine.

A completely abandoned city

We came across a complete city that was utterly abandoned, not a soul lived there, I rode down the main street that was bordered by multi-storied buildings yet not a thing stirred, it was a surreal experience. Apparently with the fall of communism all the city’s inhabitants that were bound to live there quickly left to return to there home towns across Russia, every man woman and child left.

Leo in our support vehicle hadn’t yet arrived after our wanderings through the deserted town and we instantly became concerned. I decided to ride back west to try and find him. A truck driver flagged me down and confirmed my worst fears; the axle on the trailer had snapped again, an agonising 800km from our destination after 28000kms. We all rode back to rejoin Leo and set up camp for the night on the edge of the Road of bones. We removed the axle and as luck would have it an English speaking guide arrived and offered to take Leo and the axle to a mine site to get it repaired.

Things were looking decidedly grim when Leo returned 2 hours later with the news that being a Friday night all the welders were either drunk or gone home and nothing would happen until Monday. Our incredibly helpful Russian decided to go the other direction to Susaman to try his luck there, Leo went with him.

More snow

The following morning, with the snowfall becoming heavier and heavier, we decided to break camp and ride toward Susaman. We were relieved to say the least when we saw Leo coming toward us in a crane truck that would lift the trailer onto the tray and take it to Susaman where a new axle was being fabricated out of old Russian axles. A wonderful night of welding, drinking vodka, a little more welding and a little more vodka was spent in the company of these fantastic people. Once again we seemed to have extricated ourselves out of a disaster with the help of incredibly helpful locals, even out here on the remote Road of Bones.

Sunshine greeted us next morning and a decision was made to try and reach Magadan by days end. Yet again the scenery was epic and we made good progress until we hit the mud. Clearing the mud sections we hit another 1000mt pass that was already ice bound with everyone coming off, (myself 6 times), it became impossible to ride to the top of the pass as the R 1200 just spun its back wheel on the ice and bogged in the snow so I was forced to push the bike up and over the pass, it was tough going. Night fell and the decision was made to camp in the snow on top of ferrovalle, a high plateau only 170kms from Magadan.

The last pass before Magadan

A nervous start to the following day saw us gingerly ride the ice for another 20kms when suddenly we reached a 3km descent which was the end of the snow and ice, before long we were riding the first paved roads in 2000kms.

The mountains petered out as we approached Magadan and we slowed our approach as we neared Magadan, not quite believing it was all about to end. We finally reached the Magadan sign 101 days after leaving the Ace Café in London. Emotions ran high as we took photos under the sign congratulating each other on an amazing effort.

Posted by Mick Mc

A Mongolian local

Our first nights camp was at an impossibly scenic spot on the bend of a river surrounded by utter wilderness. A small but constant flow of curios Mongolians trotted by on their horses to drink tea with us and look at the bikes. With dinner completed a full moon rose illuminating the countryside in a bright silver light, wild horses grazed nearby and the silence was profound, it was an magnificent introduction to Mongolia.

A local Ger dwelling family invited us in for Kymys (salted mares milk) and cheese the following morning, an experience that was enjoyed by all.

Joe washing his bike

Turning off the main road we pounded our way for 2 hours through spectacular scenery to Mongolia’s most important monastery, Amayasgalant. Our first river crossing saw the R 1200 go down to the axle ensuring a very wet me. The days of spectacular riding continued struggling at times to pick the correct track to ride on as there are so many choices, rule of thumb was to follow the power lines and keep riding west. We eventually reached the spectacular Khovsguul Nuur, a stunning alpine lake surrounded by lofty peaks. Two nights were spent sleeping inside traditional Gers and relaxing lakeside as the ¾ moon reflected off the lake.

We retraced our tracks back to Moron and rode south bound for Tsgaan Nuur, another stunning lake. We made it to within 15 minutes of the lake when disaster struck; at the time it seemed like a disaster. The axle snapped on the trailer with a wheel and axle stud rolling into the nearby river. It was certainly a sorry sight to see the end of the axle buried in the dirt in a very remote part of what is already a very remote country, Mongolia. With the axle removed and a local who knew a welder both Micks drove off into the Mongolian night (only to get hopelessly bogged for two hours) before arriving at our destination, (the welder), at midnight. An early start the following day and a welding job to reattach the axle stud to the axle (inspiring zero confidence in me that it would last ten minutes) we drove back to our impromptu campsite.

We hadn’t quite made our Tsgaan Nuur destination the previous night so a quick revamp of our itinerary saw us ride for two hours to an absolutely spectacular spot on the shores of the lake staying once again in a luxury Ger camp; it was a welcome treat for all as were the beers and great meal.

Riding the vast Mongolian landscape

With the axle holding (to my complete surprise) we continued on past ancient volcanoes and spent the day again riding the vast empty spaces of Mongolia, being spurred on by the promise of great cinnamon rolls and a wonderful feed at the Fairfield Hotel, a hotel run by and Australian couple in Tserterleg, it didn’t disappoint.

We rode back onto paved roads and into the chaos of Ulaan Bataar, Mongolia’s capital, all of us could have quite easily turned around and gone back out into the wonderful countryside, although the excellent Hotel Continental was a nice taste of luxury after a few weeks of roughing it.

A New Zealand gold mining company was found and the axle was again welded and machined with the hope that it will last to Magadan, I am still doubtful!

We rode north to the Mongol/Russian border and camped for our last night in the magnificent Mongolia. If wide open spaces, huge blue skies, friendly people and boundless off road riding is your thing then Mongolia has to be your destination. It was agreed that Mongolia was high on everyone’s favourite places visited list thus far, what a great experience.

Entering Russia and the usual five hour border crossing we spent the next two days riding the Trans Siberian Highway through vast stands of Taiga and impossibly big wheat fields to Chita.

Our cruiser at White Lake

We continued on the Trans Siberian highway until the turnoff for the legendary M56/Lena Highway; otherwise know as the “Highway to Hell”. The sign informed us that we had over 1200kms of dirt to ride until we reached Yakust, in the north of Siberia.

The track proved to be hard on the bikes but thankfully there was very little mud. Again the riding was inspiring as we are late in the season and the wonderful colours of autumn are out turning the landscape a shade of yellow and red.

We were looking for a camping spot when a couple of reindeer hunters stopped us and invited us to camp with them on the banks of a river, we quickly accepted. The spot was idyllic with a small log cabin being home for six people and a Sable Cat being cooked in the pot. The boiling eyeball did make my stomach turn a little.

A wonderful night of Yakut hospitality ensued and we chatted, (or more truthfully charades) around the campfire getting a brief insight into their culture and their way of life.

Eventually we rode into Yakutsk or more correctly caught a ferry across the Lena River as there are no bridges, yet.

Posted by Mick Mc

Returning to Almaty we stocked up for the ride across the expansive Kazakh Steppe once again as we headed for Russia. We had planned for an early start to the day as we knew the next hotel was a four day ride away however Joe’s bike had other plans, blowing a fork seal before we had even left the outskirts of town.

Pat with the mountains nearby

The hours turned into days as we rode the spectacular steppe with the looming snow capped peaks always nearby to remind us just how close we were to China, it was wonderful riding and great evenings were spent camped in remote locations under the stars surrounded by magnificent scenery, the setting sun turning the landscape ablaze.

We eventually reached the Kazakh/Russian border three days after leaving Almaty, this time the border proved to be uneventful and we were all across in less than three hours before spending the remainder of the day riding the gentle rolling green landscape that surrounded us. Every inch of this region of Russian is either farmed or forested and finding a campsite in the biggest country on earth proved difficult and always waiting were the ever present mosquitoes. We deliberately left London in June to get to this region at the most bearable time of year, any earlier and the mosquitoes are simply murder, unlike nowhere else on earth, yes they are “that” bad.

Joe on the Trans Siberian

Another big day’s ride saw us reach Krasnayorsk as we entered the region referred to as Siberia. The day was spent riding the optimistically named M 53, otherwise known as the Trans Siberian Highway. It was sensational riding though small villages with their small log cabins slowly sinking into the mud and the elderly tending their productive gardens in the all too brief summer. Shades of the former Soviet glory stood everywhere as we passed countless crumbling Soviet factories and deserted settlements, new settlements were appearing everywhere, prosperity it seemed has finally reached the countryside, time will tell as we ride ever east.

The bikes are performing well with negligible problems to date except for Pats ribbing of me every night “the ride leader has to be king, doesn’t he” he would tease “that’s why you had to ride the 1200, while the rest of us peasants follow behind on the smaller bikes” I am nearly hoping for mud on the Road of bones just so I can say “I told you so”

Lake Baikal and Mongolia are next; there is never a dull moment on the Road of Bones Expedition.

Posted by Mick M

Another day draws to a close over the Silk Road

Uzbekistan lays claim to a breathtaking architectural legacy and Samarkand features high with the stunning Registan built by Tamerlame as he spread terror across Central Asia centuries ago. Watching another day draw to a close over the Registan was a great experience.

Two days were spent here, one with a guide, to give us more of an insight into the cultural treasure trove that is Samarkand.

Onward to Bukhara, a maze of blue tiled domes and souks, we arrived early afternoon to our hotel conveniently located 100mts from the historical heart of the old city, Laubi Hauz. Sitting at this small pond surrounded by traditional restaurants one could easily feel transported back to the distant past. There are 100s of blue tiled domes in this city as well as the infamous Ark and Zindon Jail, anyone who has read Peter Hopkirks “The great game” will relate to these historical sites.

Bukharan locals

The expedition continued on to Shakrisabraz, birthplace of Tamerlame and home to his, what would have been absolutely massive palace, unfortunately the structure was too big and collapsed, but the 36mt archway still remains.

Sadly the decision had to be made, (actually it was made for us) to cancel our route through Kyrgyzstan as our nominated border crossing at OSH is now a refugee camp due to the troubles. We decided it prudent to cross back into Kazakhstan and ride the border region between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan (actually we crossed into Kyrgyzstan 2 times on a shared road with no border points) finally finishing in Almaty after a 600km day.

Leaving Tashkent we rode for the border at Yallama 60ks away as the border only 20ks away is shut to vehicles for a year, all was going well until, due to the last minute itinerary change, 3 visas were expired by a few hours, the ensuing chaos and delays would make a Hindu saint swear, eventually the 3 culprits were “released” a staggering 32 hours later from the border town, sleeping at a policeman’s house overnight.

Riding the western Tien Shan mountains

The re-routed itinerary had us staying for 2 nights at a home stay at Zhabagly, a small village in the shadows on the Tien Shan Mountains, the home stay, and break, was a welcome relief as we ate copious amounts of excellent home-cooked food and spent the day walking the Tien Shans.

The following day was our biggest yet as we covered 600ks as we hugged the snow capped peaks of the Tien Shans, arriving in Almaty at 7pm.

Posted by Mick M

Camp cooking at its best

We arrived and had to wait for a bit to exit Russia and then to enter Kazakhstan (approx. 4-5 hours to do the entire exit/entry thing crossing customs with troopie and the bikes). Just past the gates, we had to purchase insurance for riding the bikes in Kazakhstan (their law) which we calculated to be a month once we return from Uzbekistan. We spent our first night camping near a very small village and body of water. People came from all directions as this appeared to be a pasture for their cows, sheep, goats, horses. Kids arrived by horseback, dirt bike as well as just walking up from nowhere. They brought us gifts of cookies and milk. The sunset was amazing making it very peaceful even though their is a bit of work involved in setting up camp. We all received a crash course on our personal tent setup in conjunction with learning how to set up the cook tent. Carmen, Leo and Mick have assumed chef/cook details. Jacquie is the “go girl for ingredients” as well as helps out Mick from Tasmania, Pat and Murray wash dishes. The guys also load and unload the troopie each night

As we left the Kazakhstan border we expected to hit gravel, sand and dirt within about 50km, however due to much road work having been done since Mick McDonald’s last trip, we rode on smooth, paved surfaces until we hit Aktobe, Kazakhstan. After that hotel stay, we camped for three nights and rode many gravel, sand and dirt roads which was something we all looked forward to attacking and conquering (no falls or injuries). I guess the riding can be compared to operating a jack hammer all day long with the constant vibration and hammering and it was necessary to ride on “the pegs” for greater handling and control of the bike. Let’s suffice to say, this can be quite tiring for extended periods and we were all happy to see pavement when it surfaced.

A millionaire at last, 1 Million Uzbek Som

Our group slogan, “it’s an adventure, mate” is Mick McDonald’s favourite saying when any problems arise. After Aktobe and spending three nights, we crossed the border into Uzbekistan where we were to spend two nights in Tashkent. Once again, this was “an adventure mate!” as it was a day that should have only taken two hours of riding since it was only 120km, however, due to the fact that the Uzbekistan border near Tashkent was closed we had to take an hour and a half detour to another border crossing in which a part of the road was closed which made us detour the detoured route. We were approx. 4 hours crossing the border (much better timing than what Mick had gone through 5 years prior) with most of the time spent filling out declaration forms in duplicate. We had heard that a group had been through the Uzbekistan border within the last month and they were completely strip searched. Thank God this did not happen to us as rest assured no one would have wanted to see any of our underwear after three nights of camping and not showering. Once cleared, we then re-tracked the hour and a half ride back to Tashkent. It was a Full Days Ride. We spent two nights in Tashkent where a group went off to see the sights such as the Tamerlane museum while Joe worked on his bike with Leo and Mick. Today we rode to Samarkand, Uzbekistan; the historical Silk Road territory where we will be spending three nights and will have lots to report in a few days. Until then……

Posted by Jacquie

Leaving Suzdal

After leaving Suzdal, destination Kazan where Layla (Moscovite biker) came from. It was a beautiful day with blue skies and sweltering hot once again. Some parts of the road were very rough and patchy with lots of roadwork being done everywhere. Other times the road was smooth, paved and roller coaster like going up and down as we were heading in the direction of Kazan. We will not being making Kazan this night as the distance was too far so we would be looking for a hotel somewhere midway. Since Leo has joined us we have been extremely well organized not only as our driver but he and Carmen plan the daily menu while driving prior to shopping at huge shopping malls.

The beautifal Suzdal

We stayed at an unknown hotel only to find that there was no air conditioning and in ordering dinner, the waitress seemed to only understand goulash and shishtek and clek (bread). A fellow who was studying at Moscow university brought in salted fish for everyone to try with their beer (this is a specialty). It’s like having peanuts with your beer. Carmen and Jacquie went to leave the restaurant when a station wagon stopped and asked “you working girls” wanting to know if we were prostitutes. We could only respond, “English! English!” and he ended up driving off. We went next door to the fish market where they had everything from catfish to salmon (freshly smoked) and once again we were being propositioned with free fish. What services were to be provided, we will never know. After a walk around the small village, we all retired early as we were leaving early for Kazan.

Kazan

Inside the Kazan Kremlin

Leaving for Kazan was a refreshing beginning to the day as it was the first day where the temperatures dropped and the cool breeze would make for pleasant riding. We still were enjoying relatively decent road conditions however there was more roadwork being done as we proceeded southwest towards Kazan. The ride was pretty much the same as previous (highways)but noticed the difference in road conditions (deterioration) that was beginning to happen. Arriving in Kazan we observed a lovely walled Mosque which we toured and were told was their Kremlin (one of the nicest on this trip). Everyone explored the Kremlin and then met for dinner at a pub style restaurant where some ordered salmon, salads, calamari and beef. Once again, early to bed as it would be a full day of riding to Samara as opposed to the half day that it took us to Kazan.

Samara

Coffee stop

Off to Samara. We left at exactly 8:04 am for a 8 o’clock departure (one of the closest on schedule departure times we’ve had so far). We had several stops trying to get out of the city as it was not only dodging chaotic traffic but the roads conditions that were severe in nature with huge potholes as well as contending with railway tracks that jutted out of the cement making it difficult to cross. Yet, we all maneuvered unscathed. We had our morning coffee at a small restaurant where the local people came out to see and support our group. Many gave us the “thumbs up” sign when we told them our destination was Magadan. We continued on back rolling roads which were smooth and winding throughout harvested fields when all of a sudden the road conditions changed and it became grooved from heavy weighted trucks indenting the paved road making it hazardous to us riders. It also was heavily potholed with lots of gravel patches which made us slow down to approx 45 km/hr. or less. We had a picnic lunch that was shared with the bees and the wasps. Our lunch was some wonderful sandwiches made with homemade bread, salads, deserts, juices that are better than what we would make at home. Continuing on, we had our afternoon coffee break not drinking coffee but eating watermelon that was from the local farmer’s market at Kazan. We had approx. another 50km and we were in Samara arriving at approx 5:30 pm. Samara is the home of the MIG fighter plane which had monuments scattered throughout the city. We enjoyed dinner by the beach and the jazz band that played in the square by our hotel. Today has been a rest day and everyone has been getting their bikes serviced for Kazakhstan (the gravel and sand that we would now be riding on). Some also got laundry done while others slept, went shopping or blogged. From this point forward we will be going to more remote places where internet service may not be present so please be patient as we will try to update as often as we can.

Posted by Jacquie

Pat and a bit of off-roading

Isaac

Joe

Departing Turkey for Russia, crossing the Black Se

We did eat in their cafeteria style restaurant, some of us slept on benches on the upper deck (inside) while others were smart enough to get a cabin for a more restful sleep. The washrooms were holes in the floor and it was questionable as to what exactly you were standing in along with aroma’s that one could smell ten feet away. As Mick our Compass Expedition Leader keeps saying, “it’s an adventure mate!”. And that it’s been. Once we arrived in Sochi, Russia, approx 5:30 pm Saturday night, it took us until 1 am before we were finally through immigration and customs. We had what is called “an agent” who helped expedite matters which we now know was fast compared to a guy from Switzerland who was waiting over two days to board the ferry from Sochi to Trabzon (obviously he did not have an agent).

After a few hours sleep, we were all back on the road making our way through the mountains of Sochi. It was heaven to be back on the bikes going through the “sweepers” once again and racing through traffic. Unfortunately, it wasn’t even lunch time and three of our crew had been stopped at the top of a mountain turn by the police for passing on a solid white line. The police produced video showing one of our guys the offense and after saying “prison! prison! prison!” he finally gave their licenses back and stated “present” and off they went. No fines! A definite present.

We ate lunch roadside with a statue of a wartime person. It was scorching outside with the hot blazing sun beating down and no wind. After lunch, we ended up along the coast riding with a bit of wind in our faces. We stopped at a local beach-side cafe and watched all the people who were out swimming on this beautiful Saturday. There were so many cars along the coast that we believed that all of Russia was at the beach this fine day. We arrived in Krasnodar and were treated to an outdoor Russian style dinner eating borscht and kebabs (a regular item on the menu in Russia). We were all exhausted and retired early so that we could set out to Rostov-na-Don the next day.

Hot riding on the Volga Steppe

Leaving for Rostov-na-Don all of us had commented that all the beaches were very carnival like in nature. They had places that were like “wet ‘n wilds”, rides, cotton candy and the works. It was a hot, sweltering day again however by midday, the clouds had started to appear and after making a brief stop by a gas station, Pat noticed that his back bike tire had a nail in it. What a miracle it happened there. So, we set up shop for our picnic lunch while all the guys helped Jason fix Pat’s tire and after a nice buffet of fresh breads and cold meats along with a quick salad and desert, we were back on the road once again. Not to mention the rain had passed and it seemed like this was meant to be. Right then!

The rest of the day was fairly sunny and we got to the city approx 5 pm. It was an old war time city. Many of the roads were in disrepair with manhole covers removed and severe potholes that kept us on our toes while navigating to our hotel. The hotel was spectacular and as I write this let’s just say it had GREAT AIR CONDITIONING (a feature we are no longer experiencing). We went down to the Rostov River and had a fabulous dinner in a ship/boat that was somewhat rustic. We all enjoyed our meals from shrimp to fish to shishkebabs while being serenaded by the local Russian folk group that consisted of women in their embroidered white dresses and hair shawls while the men were dressed in military style clothing. The entire waterfront was upbeat, music playing, carnival like and we all enjoyed a coffee before retiring for the night. Oh! And did I forget to mention the beautiful Russian women. Let’s just say that women worldwide should take note as almost all the Russian women dressed as if they are going out to a major event everyday and they are all well groomed, in shape and wear stiletto heals through the worst grooved streets and make it look like a walk in the park.

Once morning hit, we were back on our bikes; destination Volgograd. We had all taken a vote and decided to go straight to Volgograd as we were suppose to take two days to get there but many of us wanted an extra day in this infamous old wartime city to explore, get caught up on emails and laundry and just R&R as we are all pretty wiped by the end of each day. The day once again was hot, sweltering while we rode on to our lunch break at a local restaurant in which goulash and kebabs were the items on the menu. Outside a lady was selling fresh, smoked fish that was strung to the handlebars of her bike and was not open to any photo shots. We continued on to our afternoon break that was spent at a gas bar taking pictures with the locals who were so excited to see all of us as it is a rare event to have group riders pass by and stop in. They gave Mick an extra ice cream (no charge) and a CD of a singer from Magadan. En route to Volgograd, we saw many harvested wheat fields, sunflowers in full bloom as far as the eye could see. Once we hit Volgograd, the “Mother of Russia” monument loomed over the city making it quite the site as we arrived in this once very war torn city. She stands at 72 meters high on the hilltop looking over the city as if she is a guardian over the city; protecting all.

The incredible mother Russia, Volgograd

We parked our bikes in front of the Volgograd Hotel and were asked to move around back. Since we were all exhausted, we went to a nearby cellar style pub and steak house and watched old black and white silent subtitled movies while we ate. Many casually walked around the area taking pictures of many monuments close by in anticipation for the sightseeing of the next day.

The next day took sightseeing around the city to the war memorial and Mother Russia. It started out sunny but as typical began raining midday. The day was spent rather leisurely with some catching up on sleep, a little bit of shopping to be had while others sampled the local cuisine at outdoor cafes before heading off to bed as another big day of riding was ahead of us; bound for Moscow.

Unfortunately this wasn't Pats first encounter with the law

It was a beautiful sunny day leaving Volgograd and our destination was Moscow. We had all agreed that we wanted to get there in two days, not three, and it was approx. 1000km ahead of us. The road was all patchy, under construction with repairs being made along the entire section of single lane highways. Police checkpoints were everywhere. The day warmed up however as the day went on, it became very overcast ending in rain. Traveling on the highway we observed pretty much the same flat, harvested wheat fields with huge sunflower patches and rolling plains that went on for miles. We had a roadside lunch in a wheat field and carried on to an unknown spot for the night. Along the way, four of us passed an unmarked police car doing 100 km/hr in a marked 50 km/hr zone. When we got to the checkpoint, we were pulled over and the police asked for the front and rear drivers to provide documentation and accompany them to their vehicle where they could show on video the infraction. A ludicrous amount of money was demanded and after much negotiation some American dollars changed hands and we were allowed to progress – needless to say, a fine was issued. A storm was brewing, we needed fuel and accommodation so at our first opportunity we pulled over at a truck stop which housed the bikers in the guesthouse and the leaders, Mick and Jason, stayed in a two bed hut at the back of the guesthouse – not enough room to swing a cat around (Aussie humour). After dinner, the entertainment for the night was a strumming session on Jason’s guitar accompanied by two Ukrainian men who not only played his guitar as well but belted out lyrics to the music breaking all language barriers.

Now, MOSCOW!!!! Our total focus was to get to Moscow; one of the major highlights of our trip. We had over 500km to travel along the long monotonous highways with several police stops; and more as you approached Moscow. The day was once again sweltering hot and our normal two lane highways became four and then six and eight lanes wide approaching the city centre. Traffic was chaos and cars were coming at us from all directions as if they were trying to kill us. Which nearly happened. A drunken Russian screamed up behind Mick, our fearless tour leader, who saw him at the last moment in his rear-view mirror and became instantly fearful, gave it a gut-full (on the accelerator) and narrowly avoided being mowed down by, ironically, a BMW sedan. Luckily, BMW doesn’t have two coats of paint because it was a paint layer away from being swiped. Joe did some of the best maneuvering that any of us have seen so far on this trip as he weaved to try and escape a kamikaze bus driver who was in a hurry going nowhere fast because the traffic was so thick. Joe nearly lost his panniers where his spare underwear was packed (which he almost needed in the moment). Welcome to Moscow!!!!

Moscow is a must for everyone. The first day the group caught the train in to the city centre heading straight for the Red Square. The enormity of The Kremlin, the spectacular and colourful domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral with the incredible mosaics on the inside, Lenin’s Tomb (no cameras allowed), the magnificent flora of the gardens. We took a tour inside the Kremlin and it’s fair to say that it is not only the seat of power but it is also a city within the city of Moscow. Too much to absorb in one day so some people went further sightseeing the next day while others had their BMW bikes serviced at BMW where they met Stefan and Layla (Moscovites) who were also having their bikes serviced and offered to translate. While waiting for the bikes, they took Murray and Joe to other bike shops to pick up other bits and pieces needed for trip. Later, they came around to our hotel and took some of the group to the local bikers hangout which overlooked the entire city. We then went on a night ride throughout some of the more affluent areas of Moscow; flying through the city of Moscow that was quiet for a Saturday evening considering how maniacal is was Friday. We ended up at the Night Wolves Biker Hangout which is the largest biker group in Europe and the president of this club not only has met former President Putin but was also blessed by the Head of the Russian Orthodox Church. The Biker Hangout was like something out of Mad Max with welded metal resulting in unidentifiable structures that fused everything together like a modern fortress. Big guys dressed in colours guarded the gates selecting who enters. Before we knew it, it was 1:00 am and we needed to get back to the hotel to get some rest for our early departure to Suzdal.

Since our last blog, we have had a crew change. Due to unforeseeable circumstances, Jason has had to return to the UK and Leo has flown in from Germany to take his place as the Support Vehicle Driver. We thank Jason for his friendship and support and we wish him well. Welcome Leo. Our first night together in Suzdal. Suzdal is not only known for it’s many churches but also the remnants of Communism can be seen at Hotel Suzdal as this was the vacation hot spot for Communist Leaders, their subordinates and their families. This hotel is still equipped with bowling alleys, wardrobe centre, concert hall, indoor and outdoor pools and unairconditioned rooms to cater for a small army. In it’s heyday, this place would be a vibrant city bustling with people.

We are now traveling on the Transiberian Highway and getting into more remote locations. Our camping days are fast approaching. Our internet service may be very sporadic but we will do our best at keeping you abreast of our travels. We can be followed by satellite link which can be found on the route page. Until next time……..

Posted by Jacquie