Silk Road antiquities, Samarkand and Bukhara
Posted by admin | Posted on 10-08-2010 | 5We left Tashkent early primarily to avoid the searing heat to be expected as we rode the Silk Road toward Samarkand. The Silk Road attracted the greatest travelers and conquerors in history and we were excited to be riding it.
Another day draws to a close over the Silk Road
Uzbekistan lays claim to a breathtaking architectural legacy and Samarkand features high with the stunning Registan built by Tamerlame as he spread terror across Central Asia centuries ago. Watching another day draw to a close over the Registan was a great experience.
Two days were spent here, one with a guide, to give us more of an insight into the cultural treasure trove that is Samarkand.
Onward to Bukhara, a maze of blue tiled domes and souks, we arrived early afternoon to our hotel conveniently located 100mts from the historical heart of the old city, Laubi Hauz. Sitting at this small pond surrounded by traditional restaurants one could easily feel transported back to the distant past. There are 100s of blue tiled domes in this city as well as the infamous Ark and Zindon Jail, anyone who has read Peter Hopkirks “The great game” will relate to these historical sites.
Bukharan locals
The expedition continued on to Shakrisabraz, birthplace of Tamerlame and home to his, what would have been absolutely massive palace, unfortunately the structure was too big and collapsed, but the 36mt archway still remains.
Sadly the decision had to be made, (actually it was made for us) to cancel our route through Kyrgyzstan as our nominated border crossing at OSH is now a refugee camp due to the troubles. We decided it prudent to cross back into Kazakhstan and ride the border region between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan (actually we crossed into Kyrgyzstan 2 times on a shared road with no border points) finally finishing in Almaty after a 600km day.
Leaving Tashkent we rode for the border at Yallama 60ks away as the border only 20ks away is shut to vehicles for a year, all was going well until, due to the last minute itinerary change, 3 visas were expired by a few hours, the ensuing chaos and delays would make a Hindu saint swear, eventually the 3 culprits were “released” a staggering 32 hours later from the border town, sleeping at a policeman’s house overnight.
Riding the western Tien Shan mountains
The re-routed itinerary had us staying for 2 nights at a home stay at Zhabagly, a small village in the shadows on the Tien Shan Mountains, the home stay, and break, was a welcome relief as we ate copious amounts of excellent home-cooked food and spent the day walking the Tien Shans.
The following day was our biggest yet as we covered 600ks as we hugged the snow capped peaks of the Tien Shans, arriving in Almaty at 7pm.
Posted by Mick M
Reading everything with a certain amount of terror for you all. The trip has everything, extreme heat, fires and an ethnic war. Crazy year for a bike ride. Stay safe. Marg.
Hi Mick & Co
So thoroughly enjoy the posts, makes me even more determinted to get the trike finished for next year.
My employer has already been told I’m not going to be in Perth from May to end October next year.
Keep enjoying it everybody.
Cheers
Brian.
Sounds like you are having a good go Mick, Rock on.
Hi there
I am reading all the blogs and am really enjoying them. I plan to do this trip in 2013 but have booked for Coast to Coast Sth America 2011.
It sounds like the adventure of a life time. All the police stops sound a bit freaky though. Keep the blogs rolling as you can and ride safe.
Cheers Deb
Ah…..all the ingredients for “it’s an adventure, mate.” Staying tune with much envy. Cheers!