Trabzon, Turkey to Suzdal, Russia
Posted by admin | Posted on 14-07-2010 | 5We stayed two nights in Trabzon (which we thought could be longer) as we were waiting to get booked to take the rust bucket ferry from Trabzon to Sochi, Russia. We left our hotel, Sicilya, at 2pm Thurs and reached our next hotel, Hotel Sochi, by 2 am Sunday morning (over 48 hours in total). Let’s just say that probably none of us will be in a hurry to take a ferry ride of that nature for awhile (if ever).
Departing Turkey for Russia, crossing the Black Se
We did eat in their cafeteria style restaurant, some of us slept on benches on the upper deck (inside) while others were smart enough to get a cabin for a more restful sleep. The washrooms were holes in the floor and it was questionable as to what exactly you were standing in along with aroma’s that one could smell ten feet away. As Mick our Compass Expedition Leader keeps saying, “it’s an adventure mate!”. And that it’s been. Once we arrived in Sochi, Russia, approx 5:30 pm Saturday night, it took us until 1 am before we were finally through immigration and customs. We had what is called “an agent” who helped expedite matters which we now know was fast compared to a guy from Switzerland who was waiting over two days to board the ferry from Sochi to Trabzon (obviously he did not have an agent).
After a few hours sleep, we were all back on the road making our way through the mountains of Sochi. It was heaven to be back on the bikes going through the “sweepers” once again and racing through traffic. Unfortunately, it wasn’t even lunch time and three of our crew had been stopped at the top of a mountain turn by the police for passing on a solid white line. The police produced video showing one of our guys the offense and after saying “prison! prison! prison!” he finally gave their licenses back and stated “present” and off they went. No fines! A definite present.
We ate lunch roadside with a statue of a wartime person. It was scorching outside with the hot blazing sun beating down and no wind. After lunch, we ended up along the coast riding with a bit of wind in our faces. We stopped at a local beach-side cafe and watched all the people who were out swimming on this beautiful Saturday. There were so many cars along the coast that we believed that all of Russia was at the beach this fine day. We arrived in Krasnodar and were treated to an outdoor Russian style dinner eating borscht and kebabs (a regular item on the menu in Russia). We were all exhausted and retired early so that we could set out to Rostov-na-Don the next day.
Hot riding on the Volga Steppe
Leaving for Rostov-na-Don all of us had commented that all the beaches were very carnival like in nature. They had places that were like “wet ‘n wilds”, rides, cotton candy and the works. It was a hot, sweltering day again however by midday, the clouds had started to appear and after making a brief stop by a gas station, Pat noticed that his back bike tire had a nail in it. What a miracle it happened there. So, we set up shop for our picnic lunch while all the guys helped Jason fix Pat’s tire and after a nice buffet of fresh breads and cold meats along with a quick salad and desert, we were back on the road once again. Not to mention the rain had passed and it seemed like this was meant to be. Right then!
The rest of the day was fairly sunny and we got to the city approx 5 pm. It was an old war time city. Many of the roads were in disrepair with manhole covers removed and severe potholes that kept us on our toes while navigating to our hotel. The hotel was spectacular and as I write this let’s just say it had GREAT AIR CONDITIONING (a feature we are no longer experiencing). We went down to the Rostov River and had a fabulous dinner in a ship/boat that was somewhat rustic. We all enjoyed our meals from shrimp to fish to shishkebabs while being serenaded by the local Russian folk group that consisted of women in their embroidered white dresses and hair shawls while the men were dressed in military style clothing. The entire waterfront was upbeat, music playing, carnival like and we all enjoyed a coffee before retiring for the night. Oh! And did I forget to mention the beautiful Russian women. Let’s just say that women worldwide should take note as almost all the Russian women dressed as if they are going out to a major event everyday and they are all well groomed, in shape and wear stiletto heals through the worst grooved streets and make it look like a walk in the park.
Once morning hit, we were back on our bikes; destination Volgograd. We had all taken a vote and decided to go straight to Volgograd as we were suppose to take two days to get there but many of us wanted an extra day in this infamous old wartime city to explore, get caught up on emails and laundry and just R&R as we are all pretty wiped by the end of each day. The day once again was hot, sweltering while we rode on to our lunch break at a local restaurant in which goulash and kebabs were the items on the menu. Outside a lady was selling fresh, smoked fish that was strung to the handlebars of her bike and was not open to any photo shots. We continued on to our afternoon break that was spent at a gas bar taking pictures with the locals who were so excited to see all of us as it is a rare event to have group riders pass by and stop in. They gave Mick an extra ice cream (no charge) and a CD of a singer from Magadan. En route to Volgograd, we saw many harvested wheat fields, sunflowers in full bloom as far as the eye could see. Once we hit Volgograd, the “Mother of Russia” monument loomed over the city making it quite the site as we arrived in this once very war torn city. She stands at 72 meters high on the hilltop looking over the city as if she is a guardian over the city; protecting all.
The incredible mother Russia, Volgograd
We parked our bikes in front of the Volgograd Hotel and were asked to move around back. Since we were all exhausted, we went to a nearby cellar style pub and steak house and watched old black and white silent subtitled movies while we ate. Many casually walked around the area taking pictures of many monuments close by in anticipation for the sightseeing of the next day.
The next day took sightseeing around the city to the war memorial and Mother Russia. It started out sunny but as typical began raining midday. The day was spent rather leisurely with some catching up on sleep, a little bit of shopping to be had while others sampled the local cuisine at outdoor cafes before heading off to bed as another big day of riding was ahead of us; bound for Moscow.
Unfortunately this wasn't Pats first encounter with the law
It was a beautiful sunny day leaving Volgograd and our destination was Moscow. We had all agreed that we wanted to get there in two days, not three, and it was approx. 1000km ahead of us. The road was all patchy, under construction with repairs being made along the entire section of single lane highways. Police checkpoints were everywhere. The day warmed up however as the day went on, it became very overcast ending in rain. Traveling on the highway we observed pretty much the same flat, harvested wheat fields with huge sunflower patches and rolling plains that went on for miles. We had a roadside lunch in a wheat field and carried on to an unknown spot for the night. Along the way, four of us passed an unmarked police car doing 100 km/hr in a marked 50 km/hr zone. When we got to the checkpoint, we were pulled over and the police asked for the front and rear drivers to provide documentation and accompany them to their vehicle where they could show on video the infraction. A ludicrous amount of money was demanded and after much negotiation some American dollars changed hands and we were allowed to progress – needless to say, a fine was issued. A storm was brewing, we needed fuel and accommodation so at our first opportunity we pulled over at a truck stop which housed the bikers in the guesthouse and the leaders, Mick and Jason, stayed in a two bed hut at the back of the guesthouse – not enough room to swing a cat around (Aussie humour). After dinner, the entertainment for the night was a strumming session on Jason’s guitar accompanied by two Ukrainian men who not only played his guitar as well but belted out lyrics to the music breaking all language barriers.
Now, MOSCOW!!!! Our total focus was to get to Moscow; one of the major highlights of our trip. We had over 500km to travel along the long monotonous highways with several police stops; and more as you approached Moscow. The day was once again sweltering hot and our normal two lane highways became four and then six and eight lanes wide approaching the city centre. Traffic was chaos and cars were coming at us from all directions as if they were trying to kill us. Which nearly happened. A drunken Russian screamed up behind Mick, our fearless tour leader, who saw him at the last moment in his rear-view mirror and became instantly fearful, gave it a gut-full (on the accelerator) and narrowly avoided being mowed down by, ironically, a BMW sedan. Luckily, BMW doesn’t have two coats of paint because it was a paint layer away from being swiped. Joe did some of the best maneuvering that any of us have seen so far on this trip as he weaved to try and escape a kamikaze bus driver who was in a hurry going nowhere fast because the traffic was so thick. Joe nearly lost his panniers where his spare underwear was packed (which he almost needed in the moment). Welcome to Moscow!!!!
Moscow is a must for everyone. The first day the group caught the train in to the city centre heading straight for the Red Square. The enormity of The Kremlin, the spectacular and colourful domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral with the incredible mosaics on the inside, Lenin’s Tomb (no cameras allowed), the magnificent flora of the gardens. We took a tour inside the Kremlin and it’s fair to say that it is not only the seat of power but it is also a city within the city of Moscow. Too much to absorb in one day so some people went further sightseeing the next day while others had their BMW bikes serviced at BMW where they met Stefan and Layla (Moscovites) who were also having their bikes serviced and offered to translate. While waiting for the bikes, they took Murray and Joe to other bike shops to pick up other bits and pieces needed for trip. Later, they came around to our hotel and took some of the group to the local bikers hangout which overlooked the entire city. We then went on a night ride throughout some of the more affluent areas of Moscow; flying through the city of Moscow that was quiet for a Saturday evening considering how maniacal is was Friday. We ended up at the Night Wolves Biker Hangout which is the largest biker group in Europe and the president of this club not only has met former President Putin but was also blessed by the Head of the Russian Orthodox Church. The Biker Hangout was like something out of Mad Max with welded metal resulting in unidentifiable structures that fused everything together like a modern fortress. Big guys dressed in colours guarded the gates selecting who enters. Before we knew it, it was 1:00 am and we needed to get back to the hotel to get some rest for our early departure to Suzdal.
Since our last blog, we have had a crew change. Due to unforeseeable circumstances, Jason has had to return to the UK and Leo has flown in from Germany to take his place as the Support Vehicle Driver. We thank Jason for his friendship and support and we wish him well. Welcome Leo. Our first night together in Suzdal. Suzdal is not only known for it’s many churches but also the remnants of Communism can be seen at Hotel Suzdal as this was the vacation hot spot for Communist Leaders, their subordinates and their families. This hotel is still equipped with bowling alleys, wardrobe centre, concert hall, indoor and outdoor pools and unairconditioned rooms to cater for a small army. In it’s heyday, this place would be a vibrant city bustling with people.
We are now traveling on the Transiberian Highway and getting into more remote locations. Our camping days are fast approaching. Our internet service may be very sporadic but we will do our best at keeping you abreast of our travels. We can be followed by satellite link which can be found on the route page. Until next time……..
Posted by Jacquie
Hey Leo…..just can’t stay home eh? Am sure your skills will be put to fine use. All the best!
Thanks Jacquie,following along with delight. Makes me want to see that part of the world. I’ll take my own toilet though.
Hey Leo. Back on the road again!
Thanks Jacquie. Good post.
Onto the delights of Central Asia. The rest rooms on the ferry will start to look palatial.
So finally in Russia. I remember the well dressed Russian women wearing miniskirts and knee high boots. So is that why the Compass boys offer this trip? Central Moscow is packed with attractions, too much for one day alone. Loved the Metro – all the stations with the different architcture and the noisy trains. I had a run in with the Police (with dogs) in Gorky Park – a rather worrying incident as I couldn’t find my passport at the time.
A 2 beer blog to read and reminisce that was! Keep em coming Jacquie.